The first time I tried surfing was in Hanalei Bay on Kauai during my honeymoon. The instructor gave us beginners a great big buoyant board to maximize our chances of getting up on the waves. I was lucky enough to catch my first wave and ride it all the way in, tottering but staying up the whole distance. It was an unforgettable sensation of grace and power underfoot as I felt the force of the ocean below my board carrying me powerfully but smoothly to the shore. I must have had quite a blissful expression on my face as I reached the beach, because another instructor nearby looked at me, smiled and asked, Now that youve seen God, do you want to become a priest? While surfing didnt become my religion, it certainly draws and holds many disciples worldwide. And the image of surfers has never been, shall we say, one of committed activists to anything other than the next wave. The surfer dude image is one more of a self absorbed, semi employed neer do well who wastes his life in play, while hard working folks toil at their jobs and make the world turn. Well, the Surfrider Foundation certainly turns that image on is head. The Foundation is out to create awareness in those who ride the waves as well as landlubbers of the perils the oceans face, particularly from plastics that wash, blow, or are tossed into it. And beach litter is the least of it. In the north Pacific there is a gyre ( www.youtube.com ) of floating plastics twice the size of Texas, trapped and spinning in ocean ...
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